The security crisis facing Burkina Faso has led to a drastic drop in the arrival of foreign visitors to Burkinabe tourist sites. But under the leadership of the highest authorities, internal tourism is gradually taking over. From pupils to students, including groups of friends, colleagues and other associations, the Burkinabè take over tourist sites, proudly visiting their country. In the Center-South region (Manga), the peak of Nahouri, the Kaboré Tambi national park, the hut of the French explorer Binger and the royal court of Tiébélé recently listed as a UNESCO world heritage site, receive an increasing number of national visitors. Atmosphere of a day of excursion and reunion, Saturday December 7, 2024, in the province of Nahouri (Pô), with the group of elders of the Saint Joan of Arc choir from the Francis of Assisi parish of Karpala, in Ouagadougou.
In the long chrome bus which crosses, on this morning of Saturday December 7, 2024, the Kaboré Tambi National Park, with on board around thirty former members of the Saint Joan of Arc choir of the Francis of Assisi Parish of Karpala , a district of the city of Ouagadougou, the colors of the day are perceptible. About twenty kilometers from the town of Pô, capital of the province of Nahouri, the atmosphere is good-natured and there is plenty of laughter between two pleasantries. The occupants of the bus came from various walks of the country. They had lost sight of each other for years, even decades, after having formed together, in 2000, the pioneers of the Sainte Joan of Arc choir. The joy of reunion gives a surge of serotonin, this well-being hormone. But besides, there is obviously a completely different reason. The organizing committee proposed to mark this reunion with an outing to three tourist attraction sites in the Center-South region: the Pic du Nahouri, the royal court of Tiébélé and the hut of the French explorer Binger in Tiakané . Halfway to the first site mentioned, some are already thinking about the difficulty of the challenge that climbing the peak represents. “I know that those who will be at the top will be counted on the tips of their fingers,” says, a bit amused, a member of the group, in the middle of fits of laughter and discussions interspersed with polyphonic singing.
Assaulting 447 meters in height
The sun is right at its zenith when the bus of the former choristers stops at the foot of the highest elevation of the village of Nahouri which gave its name to the province. The summit of the Peak rises to an altitude of 447 meters above the heads who mechanically rise to admire it. The Pic du Nahouri is one of the 65 listed tourist sites in the Center-South, according to the 2023 tourism statistics dashboard. It welcomes an average of 1,000 people per month, depending on the seasons, informs the traditional guarantor of the places , the Nahouri Pê. The customary who received the day’s visitors in his courtyard, a few places from the Pic, explains that the site is public but passing through the custodians of the place is a prerequisite before accessing it.
“I have to make sacrifices in advance because it is also a sacred place,” he emphasizes. Then, in the story he tells about the history of the Peak, the centuries-old links they maintain with the mountain and its frequentation by tourists, he challenges his hosts on some of the prohibitions of the place: “It is strictly forbidden to take a pebble from the Peak home and do your business or throw garbage during the ascent or descent.” 12:40 p.m. The civilities at Nahouri Pê end with a round of applause, after a shower of blessings from the chef. Despite the sun shining its hot rays as if to test each other’s determination, the group set off to climb the Peak.
“Don’t look behind”
“It’s okay… but I prefer to wait for the others… here”, says, just a few minutes later, between two long breaths, Cécile Tenkodogo, as she turns back towards a large tree. There she joins a first abandonment which had already taken up residence under the thick shade. The rest of the group progresses in unison, upwards. Halfway, the young guide delegated by Nahouri Pê to lead the way, offers a little rest. Adolescent and skinny, he shows a skill and agility to make the last climbers who painfully bring up the rear pale. A few minutes after the group was formed at the checkpoint, the start was given to continue. Around 50 meters from the summit, the level of difficulty increases another notch. The slope is steeper and the path slaloms between the granite blocks requiring walking on all fours. “Don’t look from behind,” advises Juste Gouerou, a thirty-year-old member of the Pô choir. From his experience, after yet another climb of the Peak, he confides that the view from above can encourage one to give up because of dizziness or discouragement. More than 30 minutes have passed since the first stride at the foot of the Peak. The group is less and less noisy and united but still progressing. In the group of latecomers, a voice is raised to congratulate the athletes who tame the “earth monster” in just ten minutes, during “Altitude Nahouri”, an annual international running competition whose point of Arrival is set at the summit of the Pic, after kilometers of journey from the town of Pô, located 15 kilometers away.
After the hard work
For the climbers of the day, it will be more than triple or even quadruple the time of the athletes. The climb, for them, is a severe test for the muscles, nerves and breath, less accustomed to such intensive exercise. The Woodpecker and the “beings” who live there appear to be on the lookout, passive, observing and judging the temerity of their hosts. “There are plenty of animals and things on the Peak that you wouldn’t imagine, but they won’t do anything to you, thanks to the sacrifices we make in advance,” reassured Nahouri Pê. If these words from the sovereign gave courage and serenity from the start of the walk towards the heights, a few meters from the summit, the spirits seemed very troubled. Faces are bathed in pools of sweat. For some, we draw on the last resources of adrenaline to complete the journey. “I don’t plan to give up but I don’t know if I will reach the top,” confides Roland Konseiga, blunted, but with determination still alive. About ten minutes later, he arrived at the top of the Pic and even took second place. “Finally, I’m here,” he says, his two index fingers pointing in the air and wearing a winning smile. “I got there first and I’m very happy I managed to do it. It’s truly a unique experience that I would like to do regularly and that I recommend to all Burkinabè people,” rejoices the group’s yellow jersey, Marcel Salou, who arrived a few minutes before his successor. Diane Ouédraogo is the first lady of the group to climb to the crest of the elevation. She’s taking on this challenge for the second time, 22 years after her very first successful climb, she says.
Deserved celebrations
About ten minutes later, more than 20 people were gathered on the flat surface of the summit which bore, among others, the signature of the former President of Faso, Thomas Sankara. A footprint that the father of the August 1983 Revolution left after a successful parachute landing on the engraved area, the guides report. The challenge of climbing the Pic du Nahouri is met for the majority of the group of former choristers, despite the weight of age for some. The reward at the end of the effort seems to satisfy everyone. The Nahouri Pê cited about this reward for any climber to the top of the Peak, the benefit of sport on the body, an additional ten years of life, or even more, and the guarantee of cure of illnesses or prosperity of business. for those who are animated by these desires and who strive to lead an exemplary life and far from the vices of society. But that’s not all, according to the climbers of the day.
“The air is pure and we have a magnificent panoramic view from up there,” exclaims Diane Ouédraogo. “I didn’t think that at such a height, the climate would be so mild, especially at such a time,” Marcel Salou happily marvels. On his watch which he consults, 1:40 p.m. is displayed. Cameras and smartphones crackle to immortalize the moment. Alone, in pairs or in groups, we pose for remembrance. In the background of the shots, below, towns located on either side of the border of Burkina Faso and Ghana such as Dakola, Pô and Paga appear, so close, with habitats that look like mushrooms growing on a wild land. After the period of celebrations which lasted around twenty minutes, the start signal is whistled for the return. The descent became faster. Twenty minutes at most pass when the last climbers join the rest of the group at the foot of the Peak. All emerged unscathed from unpleasant surprises, as Nahouri Pê confidently announced before the start of the climb. “As far as I can remember, no one has ever encountered any problem here because the sacrifices we make guarantee that,” he said. Embarking, the excursionists leave behind the village of Nahouri and its majestic Peak and head for Pô, to then reach Tiébélé, around thirty kilometers away. Atmosphere, religious songs, anecdotes and jokes between parents keep the occupants of the bus in suspense until their destination.
UNESCO World Heritage
4:30 p.m. The bus muffles its purr in front of the legendary royal court of Tiébélé. “It was recently listed as a UNESCO world heritage site,” an occupant of the bus quickly points out. The latter is visibly well aware of the conclusions of the 46th session of the World Heritage Committee in New Delhi, India, held on July 26, 2024. The meeting had in fact validated this inscription desired by the Burkinabè delegation led by the minister responsible for culture and tourism of the time, Rimtalba Jean Emmanuel Ouédraogo. The guide Abou Bayeideina, informed of the arrival of the day’s tourists, begins a guided tour of the place. People look, proud and admiring, at the traditional knowledge and know-how expressed through the architecture and the paintings on the huts and the walls of the courtyard. Under the glow of the setting sun, the group disappears into the labyrinth made up of huts and walls. He then spends some time discovering the interior of the 8-shaped hut of Kayè Tintama, the Living Human Treasure (THV), an honorary distinction given to cultural personalities who strive to promote and transmit their knowledge and know-how. Twilight is fast approaching but the group is determined to still take advantage of this leap into the precolonial past in Kassena territory. Photos are available throughout the guided tour. The magic of the “video call” function of smartphones allows some people to share their knowledge remotely. The group’s tour through the paths of the courtyard and inside the huts finally ends with an exit where stalls of traditional objects and documents on the history of the palace are offered to visitors.
General satisfaction
5:50 p.m. Embarked again in the direction of Pô, the group plans to continue to the last site of the program, the hut which sheltered the French explorer Binger, in the 19th century, in Tiakané, approximately 7 km from Pô. However, after a discussion, he decides to give it up. The sun having already “fallen into the arms of the sky to rest”, the area of the site is bathed in darkness and due to the lack of lighting, the night visit will not produce the desired effect, several people point out. Later, in the darkness, to the sound of cries of some animals and nocturnal birds, the bus “returns its steps”, crossing the classified forest of the Kaboré Tambi National Park for the capital, Ouagadougou. Hymns and a few exchanges still arise, in the vehicle, from the rare busts still supplied with energy. Gérard Tinguiri and Lazard Doulkom, former leaders of the Sainte Joan of Arc choir group and members of the organizing committee, could not have dreamed of anything better for the communion and joy desired on the occasion of their reunion. In the past, the group had initiated outings outside the country, to Ivory Coast, Togo and Ghana, but the tourist excursion, according to them, to national sites gave a special character to their reunion. “This outing is a departure for the group of alumni of the Sainte Joan of Arc choir”, particularly supports Lazard Doulkoum who says he is “satisfied” and ready, with his comrades, for other adventures as thrilling as they are instructive.
Selling ZANGO
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Soulaïman Kagoné, Director General of ONTB
“We are delighted to see that the Burkinabè are proudly visiting their country”
Sidwaya (S.): Tourist activity is becoming more and more part of the daily lives of Burkinabè people. What explains this?
Soulaïman Kagoné (S.K) : For around ten years or even since the creation of the Burkinabè National Tourism Office (ONTB) in 1989 (the ONTB has become the National Agency for the Promotion of Tourism, Faso tourisme, since November 6, 2024, Editor’s note), with the main ambition of promoting the Burkina Faso destination, there are major actions that are carried out such as holiday camps, tourism and environment children’s camps, the creation of tourist clubs in establishments and tourist excursions. All of this taken together allows us to have a critical mass of populations knowledgeable about tourism. It is therefore long-term work but we are still continuing in this vein because there is still a lot to do so that all Burkinabè people can adopt and want to travel around their wonderful country.
S: Burkinabè people are also increasingly engaging in adventure and cultural tourism, particularly in the Center-South region. Is it a revolution in mentalities sparked by the promotion, at the top of the State, of patriotism and a return to basics?
S.K.: All these phenomena are involved in the observation that is given to see. There is indeed promotional work being done but we can add to that, the revival of patriotism. Currently, the Burkinabè feel more proud of themselves. Since we are going through the security crisis and we are sometimes painted red and sometimes black, depending on the desires of one or the other, we have understood that it is up to us to constitute the first tourists in Burkina Faso. Let the Burkinabè be the true ambassadors of their country because we say it very often, no one will come and promote us in our place. I think everyone got the message. Today, we are delighted to see that the Burkinabè themselves are proudly visiting their country.
S: Can the development of internal tourism have an impact on major current challenges such as the reconquest of territorial and cultural sovereignty, social cohesion and development?
S.K. : Of course! Today, this is really our leitmotif, that is to say, developing internal tourism. We believe that the better we know each other, the better we tolerate each other and the better we help each other. It is always ignorance which is very often at the root of dissensions and crises. In general, discord between populations also comes from the absence of connection and interpenetration between them. Everyone who travels knows this very well. You will always feel better within a community that shares its values, history and culture with you. It is therefore important that we set out to discover others and their values. This is what will help strengthen our ties and enable us to tackle major common development challenges together.
S: What will you say to the Burkinabè who do not yet have the culture of tourism in their habits?
S.K. : To all Burkinabè people, I ask not to be self-conscious about what we have. We have the most beautiful country in the world because it is in Burkina Faso that you can find from north to south and from east to west, all the possible curiosities.
Interview conducted by MZ